I have been blessed with performing at the University of Memphis twice now and both times I have had a great time. Last year I shared a show with the lovely and talented Kelly Tsai from New York. We joked that we were contestants on the show "Amazing Race" because we packed so many activities into the 24 hours we were there. We rocked through Graceland, ate at Deja Vu and the Arcade, strolled along Beale St. and visited the National Civil Rights Museum. This year's trip was equally exciting. I took some pictures and brought home neat memories as souvenirs. Prior to my show, I ate at Central BBQ, which
was sooooo AMAZINGLY good. I had the three-meat
combo plate with brisket, hot links, and pulled pork. French fries and mac n cheese added weight to the already copious portions that ended up rendering me victim of a self-induced food coma. I rocked my set and the students were engaged and lots of fun.
After the show I headed to Beale St. to listen to some live music. I found my way into BB King's Blues club, as well as a smaller venue that had a better band. The Blues has an unparalleled way to tell a story and engage the audience in sheer emotion. The lead singer of the band was goin in! Sweat fell from his brow, disguising what I swear were tears, as he belted out the saddest lines ever. I found myself listening to each song, pulling meaning out of the performance and lyrics alike. Thick cigarette smoke slow-danced across the packed club like spirits trying to find a seat, as the band covered songs from John Lee Hooker, Otis Redding, Muddy Waters and even Michael Jackson. I don't know if it is psychological or embedded expectation, but there is a cultural pulse that beats through Memphis that I feel every time I am there. It was a good night.
I woke up early the next day and headed to the Arcade for breakfast. The Arcade is Memphis' oldest restaurant and it has fed many celebrities and has appeared in countless movies due to its old-school charm; I had the "Redneck
," which was biscuits and gravy. The historic Lorraine Motel, where Dr. King was assassinated, is a block away from the restaurant. The site was turned into the National Civil Rights Museum in 1991. I visited the museum last year and remember it being a draining experience with many questions left unanswered. I recall strolling upon a makeshift protest table before entering the museum that held a banner that read "Gentrification is an abuse of civil liberties." I remember thinking it was a neat protest shrine and kept walking.
mith In Protest 24 years and 29 days." I was floored. I approached the table and engaged her in conversation. She was a resident in the motel for an extended period of her life. After King's assassination, she explained, "the motel became low-income housing and the place I called home." She explained that the area around the motel was poverty stricken and desperate. She was the last person to be forcefully removed from the motel after barricading herself inside in protest of the building of the museum.She says that back in the eighties, month after month, she resisted attempts to have her ejected. She gave up what little she had to dedicate her life to her cause, which ultimately, she views as furthering Dr. King's philosophies. finally, all h
er utilities were cut off and food had to be brought in by supporters and well wishers. Eventually, on January 14th 1988 she was given notice to vacate immediately or face criminal charges. After the notice period, authorities forcibly threw her out onto the street. Local neighbors continued to support her, bringing her food and clothing. She has been camping out ever since.
We talked gentrification. We talked exploitation of Dr. King's message. We talked about a 9 million dollar museum that she believes is a corruption of Dr. King's work and a tourist trap that does not contribute to the empowerment/help of the populations that are most vulnerable and in need. She calls it a "Disneyla
nd-type perpetuation of violence and exploitation." Ms. Smith believes the museum glorifies the violence and hate Dr. King was opposed to. She says that "if Dr. King were alive, I'm sure he would want a place to protect and celebrate the living, not a money pit dedicated to celebrating hate and death." She spoke of the new condos and "yuppie shops" that line Main St. and the area adjacent to the Lorraine. She cringes at White women in yoga pants walking their dogs down the street; not for who they are, but what they represent. She showed me a picture of her shunning President Carter's handshake after he broke his vow to her. He said he would never enter the museum after listening to her pitch and agreeing with her. He later received an award at the museum, which, naturally, took him inside. He came out to talk to her afterward and she refused his handshake, telling him, "you lied to me." Ms. Smith also showed me photocopied articles from USA Today, TIME Magazine, and an array of other local, national, and international publications her story has appeared in. She is an original occupier. When I asked her what she feels would have been a better investment, she said, "Spend 9 million dollars on a community development organization. Have educational development. Employment resources. Job training. Vocational training. Things the people of this community needed before being thrown out by land grab."
I told her I was a performance poet visiting from Denver. I shared with her a piece I wrote on the gentrification of my old neighborhood; she smiled through the parallels. I gave her a copy of my book and she gave me 45 minutes of the most intriguing conversation I have had in a long time. I did not agree with everything Ms. Smith had to say,
but I found value in her dedication to what she believes is right. If you ever visit Memphis and the Civil Rights Museum. Go say hello to Ms. Smith. She may convince you to not go in at all. She is a living library of civil rights history and she isn't going anywhere anytime soon. Visit her website at: http://www.fulfillthedream.net
I made my way down to Sun Studios before I hit the airport. It was epic and touristy and fun. Memphis, I can't wait to rock with you again!!!!!!!
